JEFF'S TOUR - TRANSYLVANIA TO TOPLESS TRAMPS!

I remember the last message I sent to my brother before he left on his trip.


“Pack light bro, it’s blistering hot here!” I wrote. It had been 40+ degrees everyday for 2 weeks straight but it seemed as soon as I sent that note, the sky gods reacted. Temperatures plummeted and rain began. Rainy day after rainy day there seems to be no end in sight and the River Danube was really beginning to swell. After 5 straight days of rain, the levee here in Galati was starting to feel the pressure of the swollen river. Luckily we live on top of a cliff overlooking the river so we were safe but half of Galati was in danger of losing everything. And they don’t have much to start with. I hoped and prayed that the weather would change for Jeff’s arrival but Mother Nature had other plans.

The morning we were to go to Bucharest to pick Jeff up, I felt rotten. I never feel rotten and given my excitement to see my brother this was a surprise to. I realized quickly that swallowing was beginning to get painful and difficult and within 2 hours I was running a fever. Great! I haven't been sick with a fever since I got mastitis after Evelyn was born 7 years ago and today had to be the day!? Good grief! I packed my Advil and Tylenol and decided I was going to ignore my symptoms and they would simply go away.

We piled in the rented 7 seater Dacia and started our 3.5 hour drive to Bucharest. Due to a large amount of traffic in the city, we were late but it gave Jeff a chance to check out our ghetto airport and all the gypsy travellers first hand. With 2 huge backpacks, they were all eyeballing him as fresh meat.

We have 2 airports in Bucharest. Otopeni is the main one and is very nice, well kept and clean. Benaesa Airport is the cheap carrier airport where Blue Air, Wizz Air and Easy Jet fly in and out of. Due to its cheapness, the airport is shabby and the chosen mode of travel for all of Romania’s Gypsy population.

After taking Jeff on quick tour of Bucharest, we made our way to the Hard Rock Cafe to meet up with our San Francisco/Bucharest friends one more time before they moved home in July. This is the location that we met last September. We had 2 hours to kill before boarding a plane to Italy and they had moved to Bucharest only 2 weeks before. We were the only two families in the Hard Rock that afternoon and when I heard them speaking English, I jumped on them like an English starved animal. They were so lovely and easy to talk to, our friendship began. Our children had play dates when we came to the big city and it was with them that David and I attended the Charity Ball at the parliament building. It was so great seeing them again and we were all happy to find out there were expecting their 4th child in December. I’m betting it’s another girl....

Adventures in Pinkdom Friends.

That night my fever went a bit out of control but with the right overdose of medications, I got myself back on track. Just not able to eat anything and could barely swallow water. Still not going to get the better of me. I refuse!

After enjoying a huge breakfast (although I could only have tea) at the Hotel Angelo, we jumped in the Dacia and made our way to Sinaia to see the Peles Castle. The weather in Bucharest was sunny but we knew the weather could be totally different in the mountains of Transylvania.

 Once in the mountains, the clouds were covering all the mountain tops and patches of rain were found here and there.

Peles Castle was remarkable and beautiful. We were told that it was not touched by Ceausescu during his dictatorship as the operator of the castle told him the castle was full of mould.

As a fellow who was very allergic to mould, he avoided it so it has remained as beautiful as the day it was dedicated.

Next we were off to Brasov. I came here last summer with my parents and enjoyed a beautiful summer’s day hiking all over, drinking cold bevies and lapping up some ice cream. This time however, it was so cold that I could see my breath. Compounded by my climbing fever, I thought I would never stop shivering. I couldn’t believe the change in temperature.

We made the best of it and toured around the town as we would have normally.

It is the quintessential medieval town. With a centre square, small alleys lined with shops and high walls surrounding the city like the protective arms of a mother it is so remarkably attractive.

Even in unpleasant weather.

The next morning we visited the tourist trap known as Dracula’s Castle.

It is found 20 minutes South West from Brasov in a little town called Bran and is known in Romania as Bran’s Castle or Vlad Tepes’ Castle.

The castle is not pretty like that of Sinaia’s Peles Castle. Perched atop an exposed mountain top, its steep walls built out of the side of the mountain are cold, creepy and imposing. Obviously built to ward off invaders of Transylvania, it is perched in just the right spot so that the bad guys wouldn’t know they were right under the feet of the castle until the very last moment. At which point it was too late! Vlad Tepes would have them tortured to give up their secrets, kill them and then impale their heads on the ends of massive sticks as a souvenir. He soon got a reputation for his brutality and was labelled as being so cruel, he was almost blood thirsty. This was in between the years of 1457 and 1460. Bram Stoker took this bit of history and turned it into the iconic novel “Dracula” in 1898.

Walking through the hall ways I could just picture in my head Vlad walking quickly across the wood floor as a gust of wind catches his cloak and sends it dancing behind him. Perhaps I have watched too many movies.

This is Jeff and Gabrielle emerging from the blackness of the tight stairwell leading up to the look out tower.

The last town to visit before going home to Galati was the birth place of Vlad Tepes. On our way there we past several ancient ruins of castles that have been left to rot atop their mountain perch. 

It made a lovely sight however in contrast with the rolling green hills and quaint medievil towns. 

Sighiosoara is a little town but was the biggest surprise on our weekend adventure. It is also where the temperature finally warmed, clouds disperssed and my fever was gone.  Excellent on all accounts!

It’s colourful, old buildings, interlocking stone alleys, clock tower and basilica made it rich with history and culture. I didn’t feel like I was in the concrete communist jungle anymore.

No, I felt like we had been whisked away and back in time. Until of course I see this sight and remember quickly where I am.

This guy must have been waiting for someone to die in the building behind the car. This is a common sight in Romania. Once a person dies, they are placed in a casket and displayed in the family home or apartment. They are there for 2 days on display and then they must be buried. For obvious reasons as there is no embalming here. Too expensive. So you go to the local casket store (which is similar to a Macs Milk in Ontario) choose one and strap in to your roof. Depending on how much you like the dead person, you may or may not wash the squished flies off the front side.

While we were in this beautiful little town we were treated to a traditional dance performance in the main square.

It was such a delight to see these young Romanians all dressed up in their traditional outfits and dancing around together.

We stayed on the centre square in a hotel called Casa Wagner.  It was like nothing I could have imagined.  The rooms were enormous, beautifully restored and very comfortable. 

The girls thought it was pretty special!  We absolutely loved this little town and I am so glad we saw it before we left Romania.  Here are a few more pictures from the beautiful town of Sighiosoara.

These are the stairs leading to the Basilica.  The covered walkway up the steep mountain side made me suffer a bit of vertigo.  There were probably 150 steps to climb.  Gasp!

Jeff going up to see what I think would be a great "Hagrid House".  It is actually the house of the Basilica's care taker.  Lovely gardens!

I told David he wasn't allowed to toot his own horn here.  Othewise I don't have any idea why this would be posted.

Hellooooo gorgeous!

These are storks who have built their enormous nest atop a barn.  We see them all over Romania.

Monday morning came and we began the long haul from the mountains, back across the plains to Galati. Once we were out of Transylvania the reality of hard Romania was seen. Dead dog after dead dog on the side of the road, pot holes that could take out your suspension and cold, grey, old apartment buildings lining street after street. The drive took 7.5 hours to get to Galati but we were turned back and sent on a detour because the river had taken out the street leading to our house. So in the end we had 8 hours in the Dacia wagon. Thank god for portable DVD players and police who don’t enforce seat belt laws. That’s right, I did it. Took Ruby out of her car seat so she could fall asleep and stay asleep instead of being banged around in the car seat. You literally feel like you’re on a roller coaster sometimes.

Tuesday through Thursday we brought Jeff to our big open air market, went shopping in our tiny mall, walked around town, had coffee at a few cafes, took him to watch tennis lessons, went out for dinner at real Romanian restaurants and topped it off with a visit to the Viva club. The Viva club is a hotel with 2 huge outdoor pools, a swim up bar, towel service and the best pizza in Galati. It costs 50 leu per adult to get in which is about $18 each. Kids are free however. I bought a 1 month membership for 300 leu (approx $100) and can go anytime I want. So the kids and I go in the mornings through the week and David joins us on Sundays for the day at Viva. The best way to describe Viva club is to say that it is a Jersey Boys and Playboy party gathering. Everywhere you look is browned, oiled and perfect bare boobies in thongs. I say this because I don’t even notice the girl most times since I’m too busy staring at her continuously erect nipples or the fact that when she bends over (which she does a lot) she might as well not bother with the thong. Even the 6 year old girls are topless with thongs. Wrong in so many ways. The guys are also greased up, bronzed and in peak physical condition but add gold chain wearing, chain smoking, and muscle flexing Gino’s. Between the women and the men who are chain smoking in order to keep their metabolism running on high, we pretty much have to crawl along the pool deck for fresh air.


I am going to go there one day with a small camera and take pictures to prove the insanity. I wonder what this is doing to my kids every once in a while. Evelyn sometimes swims up to me after being under water and remarks on all the bare breast under the water. The other day I found Gabrielle and Evelyn with their panties jammed up the crack of their bums walking around the house pretending to be the Viva girls. They were creasing themselves. Oh boy, time to go back to conservative Canada!

Had such a great visit with my little brother and I’m so glad he came to see us. We love you Jeff!

Love your 4 favourite girls!

HOW TO TOUR ISTANBUL IN 2 DAYS WITH 3 KIDS!

We arrived in Istanbul after a short 55 minutes flight from Izmir on May 31st at 1030. I had discussed with some neighbours of Carole and Trevor on where to stay in Istanbul and they had given me some suggestions. I decided to stay in the center of Sultanahmet region so that we would be close to all the sights we really wanted to see and we wouldn’t have to walk around as much. This was my theory.



We stayed at the Golden Horn Hotel which had views to die for.

This picture was taken from the roof top terrace where breakfast was served each morning.  It was fairly reasonably considering its proximity to the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia and had an enormous breakfast buffet included in the price. On our list of sights to see in 2 days were the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, The Grand Bazaar and The Spice Bazaar. This was our minimum. We chose not to set out thinking we could see everything and be left feeling disappointed. Time was short and so are my kid’s legs so something has to give.


First sight: The Blue Mosque. One word. WOW!

I put in a night shot because I found it even more astonishing light up.  The enormity of this place is just difficult to explain.

The detail and care that has gone into this building and its upkeep is impressive. As we waited to enter the mosque I noticed some boys dressed up in “Prince Ali” costumes. They were all about 7 years old, walking around with their families awaiting entry. I asked an English speaking Muslim woman behind me why they were dressed like that as she has just finished talking to one of the boys and laughing with his mother. She explained that this is part of a ceremony when a Muslim boy is 5, 7 or 9. He wears this traditional costume, goes to the Mosque for a special blessing and then they return home for a big party. It all finishes with his inevitable circumcision.... Oh! The reason she and the mother were laughing was because this particular boy had no idea what he was inevitably in for. I could see David’s face out of the corner of my eye. Horrified shock and repulsed would describe it accurately!

We had arrived shortly after a call to prayer and witnessed all the men washing their hands and feet before they entered the Mosque for their 1 or 5 daily prayers.  As we entered we passed by a check point where a woman stood judging what you were wearing. All the women had to have their head, arms, and chest and back covered as well as knees. If you didn’t bring a scarf with you or you were wearing short shorts, you were given blankets to wrap around your waist and put over your head. We had to take off our shoes before stepping into the mosque but were handed plastic bags to carry them in at the door. My first reaction of the inner sanctum of THE Blue Mosque... cheesy feet smell. The mosque is covered in wall to wall, ornate, carpeting that given the number of people walking over it barefoot on a daily basis, smelled like cheesy feet. A bit of a turn off but the sight indoors made you quickly forget about the microbes you are standing on. Very cool!

Second Sight: The Grand Bazaar! I’ve seen it on travel shows, I’ve heard about it through friends and colleagues and I was really excited to see it for myself. Finding it was a bit of a struggle however but finally we had arrived.

The bazaar is densely packed with small, over stocked shops of carpets, perfume, jewellery, souvenirs and much more. It is a covered maze where you can buy just about anything you want.

The place was packed with tourist from all over the world and, just like Izmir; the merchants knew what language you spoke just by looking at you. If I thought Izmir was bad for men hanging out of their shops, yelling at you to try and get your attention and lure you in, I was a fool. The merchant men in the Grand Bazaar are nothing I have ever experienced. Do not look at that article of clothing, that ring, that souvenir unless you are prepared for being swooped in on and suffocated with merchandize.


“This is the best in Turkey.” “You can’t find better.” “You must have this.” “Let me show you some more.” “What about these fine carpets?” “You can’t leave Turkey without one.” “60 Turkish Lira but 50 for you.” Smarmy smile follows.


Just glancing up at an article meant have a man jump all over trying to sell you more. It was terribly uncomfortable and to be honest it stopped me from buying more than I did. I couldn’t put up with it. It was extremely annoying. The other thing was that they all wanted Ruby. They came after her, touching her, kissing her and trying to pick her up. Thankfully she was in the backpack on David’s back most of the time so he would just speed up and away. It was creepy really. She would say no to them, turn away from them and I would hold her tight to me but they persisted in wanting to hold her. I just ended up pulling her away most of the time. All in all, the Grand Bazaar was really interesting but I wouldn’t do it again with small children and I certainly wouldn’t do it in +35 degree Celsius weather. It was really hot. Even with the aggressive sales men, we made out with a few treasures.


Second Day Ruby’s 2nd Birthday! Happy Birthday sweetie! I love you!

Third Sight: Hagia Sophia. Yay!

This amazing piece of architecture dates all the way back to 360 AD and has been used as a church, a mosque and now as a museum. It matches the size of the Blue Mosque (The Blue Mosque was modelled after the Hagia Sophia) but the fact that it has seen such historical battles and changes and survived, is honestly miraculous! It is really famous for its Mosaics that are found all over the inside walls of the building.

Millions of tiny tiles have been used to form beautiful works of art and have surprisingly stood up to the test of time.

I just had to put this picture in.  There were 2 ferrel cats sleeping in front of the spot lights that light the back wall of Hagia Sophia.
By the time we got through, it was +40 degrees outside and the girls were getting grumpy. Knowing that we just dragged them through a “big old church” as Evelyn put it, and that it interested them about as much as brushing their teeth, we decided to take a double Decker bus tour of Istanbul and see all the sights from a seated position with wind blowing through our hair. This was a fabulous decision and ended up that we saw a lot more of Istanbul than we had set out to see. It was then time for lunch, and a nap.

God it was hot!!  I would not recommend touring Istanbul in July and August with young children to anyone.  It was only June 1st and we roasted!


Forth Sight: Spice Bazaar.

David and I love to walk around the towns that we visit. The idea is, due to the short amount of time we would be in the city, we would discover more and witness a bit of the realness of the city. This is a great philosophy when travelling on your own or with other adults, but the kids did not agree. The walk to the Spice Bazaar was much longer than expected and the kids were really starting to complain but happily when we arrived, there was an ice cream vendor at the door to help cool them off. Happily the merchants in the spice bazaar were not so aggressive and let you look a bit more at what they were selling. You could smell the spices from a distance but it was nothing like when you walked in through the doors.

It was an assault on the senses. But a good assault! It was interesting and fresh, luscious and crisp, tantalizing and over powering. I bought 3 different spices just because I was there. My suitcase smelled as yummy as could be!


That evening, to celebrate Ruby’s birthday, we went to an outdoor traditional restaurant located near the Hagia Sophia.

We were treated to delicious foods, music and even a Whirling Dervish performance.

This performance was such a treat. The girls were in awe watching this cloaked man whirl around in circles over and over again. It was then that I had an Ally McBeal moment.


I saw this man beginning to slow and his head rolling a bit, showing his tremendous vertigo. Still whirling, although slower, he opened his mouth and in a spraying action chuffed his cookies over half of the crowd who were enjoying their suppers. I was, of course, at a safe distance and did not get messy so I began to giggle and then laugh at this barfing dervish because I tend to laugh at all gaggers, heavers and chuffers. I quickly snapped out of it to find him still whirling comfortably but David wondering why I was laughing to myself. He smiled and knew the moment I just had just by looking at me. We have been together a long time!


At the end of the night David ordered a Hookah Pipe for us to share. Being 2 non-smokers I was a bit nervous to try this Turkish tradition but was assured by the waiter there was no tobacco, only apple tea leaves.

Turns out it was smooth and easy to inhale and made my breath smell like apples. Kind of nice actually.

Due to its smoothness and perhaps the wine loosening our inhibitions, we let the kids try it too.

I know, I know, we are terrible parents. But when in Rome.... Gabrielle thought it was great and really put on a show for us.
Evelyn and Ruby didn’t see what the big deal was all about.


On our walk back to the hotel, I had an experience like I’ve never had before and probably will never have again. We had decided to walk through the Blue Mosque ground in order to get back faster when I noticed a group of about 6 young Muslim girls walking toward me. They stopped me in my path and were all smiling and sighing. WTF?


“Hello,” I said. They looked at each other with a look of excitement I thought they were going to burst.


“Hello,” one of the girls said nervously. I smiled at her and asked her where she was from. Immediately they all giggled and shook their heads and I could tell they didn’t understand. One of the girls held up a camera to show me. Oh, I thought, they want me to take a group shot of them. I had done this for a few people on my travels so I was happy to oblige. I reached out for their camera and they shook their heads again vigorously but still beaming. Finally their teacher came over and said in very broken English,
“They want.. picture.. with you!”
With me???? I thought. Why the heck would they want that? But like the easy going person I am I happily agreed. What happened then was like something out of the movies. I was swarmed by about 40 young Muslim girls who all wanted to take their picture with me. They were coming from everywhere and politely asking for another and another picture with me. I couldn’t believe it and by the look on David’s face, he couldn’t believe it either. He stood with the girls and waited on the steps of the Blue Mosque until the... frenzy was over. The girls would have continued to ask for more but a second teacher came over to them and ushered them away. I saw spots for 20 minutes straight. We came up with all the possible reasons that happened. Perhaps I looked like someone famous from their country. Or perhaps I was the first non-Muslim woman they had ever seen. Or perhaps I was the first non-Muslim woman they had ever seen who had blond hair and was wearing a sleeveless aqua-marine sun dress. Who knows why? I never will. But it was kind of cool!


The next day was travel day but we had an hour to kill before the bus left for the airport. We decided to walk down to a shopping area and look around for Turkish hats for the girls. On our way we were stopped by a store merchant.


“Oh you are American! Can I help you find a sight?” I am annoyed when people assume that we are American. I get it everywhere we go and it gets under my skin. “We are North American, from Canada.” I reply. This particular merchant starts to ramble on about the city and the proximity of the sights to his carpet store and I just wanted to walk away but instead I said, “thank you but we aren’t interested in buying-“ I get cut off.


“How dare you not listen to what I have to say?” He said to me.
David and I looked at each other, completely baffled. David said again, “Well what we mean is that we are on our way somewhere right now and we don’t have time to come to your store.” We start to walk away and the merchant yells,


“You are a very rude couple!”


F*&# you, you rambling piece of sh*t was what I wanted to say, and I saw David turn with the “I’m going to nut you” look in his eyes but our children were with us and hadn’t heard what this ignorant man had said, so we let it go. Besides we have more class than that. 
I recently found out our Bucharest friend, Chad, was in Istanbul and got kicked in the shins by a merchant because he had the audacity to pick something up in a store but not buy it. Jeez! Not the way I wanted to end our trip but that’s the way it goes sometimes. 
In the end, we saw everything on our minimum list but also experienced so much more.  Tour around Istanbul old and new side, Whirling Dervish, Hooka Pipe. my first and last papperatzzi experience and getting called names by the locals.  Not bad with 3 kids in tow.  In the end, staying in the center of the old city was a great move because we were relatively close to everything and could get back to the hotel  easily if needed.  The only thing I might have done differently would be to book a hotel with a pool.  It would have felt awfully nice.


We were off, back to Romania once again. I had less than a month to plan for my brother’s visit. He wanted to tour Transylvania so I had a lot of work to do.


To be continued....


Alison xx